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County Boundaries of the Northern Neck & Fredericksburg Area

By Trip Wiggins 

To find the original records of your ancestors requires you to know what county they were living in.  It also requires you to understand how county boundaries have changed over the years.  There is a standard reference work “Map Guide to the U.S. Federal Censuses, 1790-1920” by William Thorndale and William Dollarhide.  It graphically shows how the county boundaries changed with each U.S. Census beginning in 1790.  It is a WONDERFUL reference work and answers most questions in most states; however, in Virginia it is quite inadequate.  Why?  By the first census in 1790 most of our modern boundaries were already established, but it had taken over 180 years for them to stabilize!  Here, we’ll look at the formation and subsequent changes that occurred in the Northern and Middle peninsulas of colonial Virginia, essentially covering the current counties of: Northumberland, Westmoreland, Lancaster, Richmond, King George, Stafford, Spotsylvania, Culpeper, Orange, Caroline, King William, King & Queen and Essex counties.  It’s a lot of territory to cover, so let’s get started.

We are indebted to two sources covering these changes.  The first was an article that first appeared in the “Bulletin of the Virginia State Library” in 1916 by Morgan Robinson (subsequently published in book form as “Virginia’s Counties: Those Resulting from Virginia Legislation”).  While an excellent source for original documentation, it left a lot to the imagination as to the map depictions of the boundaries.  He gives the Burgess/Assembly legislation articles/dates.  Essentially you need to track down the original legislation in the House of Burgesses and House of Delegates legislation minutes (Hening’s Statutes), get copies of old maps, with a guide to place names and start figuring out how the old names translate to modern names.  A bit tedious.  Our second source is by Merrill Mosher who wrote an article for the Virginia Genealogist in 1993 entitled, “Corrections to Published Maps of County Boundaries of the Northern Neck.”  He did all of that detective work for the Northern Neck.  In this article I shall discuss his findings and continue with the counties on the Middle Peninsula that he did not address.

We begin our journey with the founding of Virginia in 1607 by the Virginia Company.  When the Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery dropped anchor at Jamestown they established the colony of Virginia.  No political boundaries were set.  Survival was the task at hand.  Then came “making a profit” for the company.  Local government would come later.  By 1617 the only “subdivisions” were the “four great Incorporations and parishes of James Citty, Charles Citty, the citty of Henricus and Kiccowtan.”  In 1619 the last was renamed Elizabeth City – renamed in honor “of his Majesties Most vertuous and renowned Daughter.”

Also in 1619 the House of Burgess was established.  The members of that house were to represent the four cities and surrounding plantations – all on the York and James rivers.

Our next change occurs in 1623-25.  In 1623 the charter for the Virginia Company was dissolved by the crown who formally took over control of the colony in 1625.  (The company was doing a very poor job so the Crown stepped in to start running things.  After all, the Crown expected PROFITS from the Virginia company.)  Even then the urgency of the Crown was to stem the high death rate and not start formal record keeping for future genealogists. (From 1607 to 1625 there were over 7200 immigrants, 6000 of which DIED!)

In 1634 the colony was divided into 8 shires (later renamed counties).  Each Shire had a Sheriff (ergo the name).  They were:

-          Accawmack (the eastern shore)

-          Charles City (on the James river west of James City)

-          Charles River (on the York river)

-          Elizabeth City (Hampton Roads area)

-          Henrico (from Charles City “indefinitely westward”)

-          James City (on the James river in the Jamestown/Williamsburg area)

-          Warrosquyoake (Isle of Wight area; now extinct)

-          Warwick River (on James river southeast of Jamestown; now extinct)

 For  our purposes, we are concerned with the “Charles River” portion of the above shires.  That was renamed in 1656 to “York.”  As people starting migrating into today’s Northern Neck and the land between the York and Rappahannock rivers - local governments were set up in rapid order.  Northumberland was formed in 1648 covering the neck of land between the “Rappahannock and Potomack” rivers.  There was no western boundary established – essentially all of the Northern Neck and today’s northern Virginia!  (This western “boundary” will continue for over a century for most county legislation.)  The land between the James and Rappahannock continued as York county.
(1648 map)1648_map

By 1651 people were on the move to this new frontier and county boundaries changed to accommodate the increasing population.  In 1651 Gloucester county was formed from York as that land between the York river to the south and the Piankatank river to the north.  Lancaster county was “born” that same year covering the land north of the Piankatank up to the “ridge” on the Northern Neck.  What this means is that the portion of the Northern Neck that drains (it’s watershed) into the “Potomack” would remain Northumberland county while that portion that drained into the Rappahannock would become part of Lancaster county.  This “watershed” issue would continue for the next 125 years in the establishment of all future counties on the Northern Neck and the Middle Peninsula.  Again, western boundaries were not defined.

So, now the Northern Neck has 2 counties – Northumberland and Lancaster, and the Middle Peninsula has 2 counties – Lancaster and Gloucester. (1652 map)

1652_map
The Potomac and Rappahannock rivers were rapidly becoming the “super highways” of colonial northern Virginia and more and more people were moving west up these rivers to get their piece of land on which to make their fortunes.  County government (along with ecclesiastical parishes) followed rapidly.  In 1653, Westmoreland was cut out of Northumberland, again following the neck’s ridgeline and covering the land draining into the Potomac north and west of the “Machoactoke river where Mr. Cole lives; and so upwards to the falls of the great river Pawtomake…”  Machoactoke is today’s lower Machodoc Creek at Cole’s Point in Westmoreland county; Pawtomake is now spelled Potomac.  (In 1664 the boundary was shifted a few miles east to the current boundary along Yeocomico river.)

In 1656 a western boundary was set for Lancaster county with the establishment of Rappahannock county.  This county, not to be confused with the modern county of the same name, extended westward up both sides of the Rappahannock river above Lancaster county.  The Northern Neck border was set at the “easternmost branch of Moratticock creeke.” (Today’s Lancaster creek.)  The Middle Peninsula boundary was the Dragon Swamp – the headwaters of the Piankatank river (not a well-defined boundary).

1664 brings us Stafford county carved out of the west end of Westmoreland county – following the familiar drainage pattern into the Potomac up to Great Falls.  Its eastern boundary is not found in any Virginia statute but presumed to be the Upper Machodoc Creek at Dahlgren.

Middlesex county is added in 1673.  It encompasses the southern half of Lancaster county (that part south of the Rappahannock river).  (1673 map) 

1673_mapThings actually remain stable for the next 20 years!  The next round of counties come in 1691/92 with the establishment of Richmond, Essex, King & Queen counties and the disestablishment of Rappahannock county.

Rappahannock is cut into two counties.  That part on the northern side of the Rappahannock river becomes Richmond county; that on the south side becomes Essex (the Middle Peninsula watershed into the Rappahannock).  Meanwhile, south of our area, in 1691 King & Queen is created from the northern half of New Kent county – covering that land north of the Pamunkey river up to the Dragon Swamp in the Middle Peninsula.  (1692 map)

1692_map

 

In 1701 King & Queen is divided in half – that part north of the Mattaponi REMAINED King & Queen (the watershed into the Mattaponi); that part between the Mattaponi and the Pamunkey is designated King William county (the watershed into the modern North Anna).  (1702 map)

1702_map

People continue to move north and west.  It is in the early 18th century when people really start migrating to the area now known as Fredericksburg.  The 1720s see the creation of King George, Spotsylvania, Caroline and Hanover counties.

Hanover is created from New Kent county and encompasses the area between the North Anna and South Anna rivers.  Spotsylvania, named for and by the sitting governor, Spotswood, is created from the heads of three counties – Essex, King & Queen and King William and covers the land between the North Anna river and the Rappahannock.  Its eastern boundary is established on a line from “Snow Creek [on the Rappahannock] up to the mill, thence by a southwest line to the river North Anna.”  This border remains today.  (In 1974 a survey was done by Spotsy and Caroline counties and a pile of stones was found at the site of the old mill, just north of U.S. Hwy 17!)  Of course the western border was not defined, so I suppose California was cut out of old Spotsylvania county!  King George is created from the west end of Richmond county on the Northern Neck.  The boundary is established at “Charles Bever Dams” – today known as Brockenbrough Creek – the current western boundary of Richmond county.

As was the custom of the time, the new counties were carved out of their parent counties mainly because the parishes were becoming too large for parishioners to attend church regularly. (If you missed 4 consecutive Sundays in church – you went to see the county judge!)

In 1728 it was still inconvenient for the people in the western ends of Essex, King William, and King & Queen counties to get to church and to “court houses and other places usually appointed for public meetings” so they were again truncated to form Caroline county.  Its western border was set at the Spotsylvania border; its eastern border was set on a line parallel to the Spotsylvania border “from the mouth of Portobago Creek on Rappahannock River to Morocosick Creek thence down the said creek to Mattapony river thence up the said river t1729_mapo Boot Swamp and up the said swamp to the fork thereof and thence southwest to Pamunkey river.”  The southern boundary was the Pamunkey and South Anna rivers; its northern boundary was the Rappahannock river.  The northern, western, and southern boundaries remain today.  The eastern boundary was modified slightly twice: in 1742 and again in 1762. (1729 map)

1728 also saw the establishment of the towns of Fredericksburg and Falmouth although neither would have much of a population for several more decades.

Jump we now to 1734.  The colony’s river banks are filled with plantations of the rich or semi-rich landed gentry.  They have a constant need for new land as tobacco farming depletes the soil rapidly.  It also means that new yeoman farmers to the area have no river land to purchase for a homestead.  Both groups now look at the Piedmont – the land between the river valleys and the Blue Ridge mountains: the West.  In 1731 Spotsylvania was divided into two church parishes: “from the mouth of Rapidan to the mouth of Wilderness Run; thence up the said run to the bridge; and thence southwest to Pamunkey River; the part below the said bounds to be known as St. George Parish, and all the other part above the said bounds to be known as St. Mark.” (The “bridge” is today’s bridge for state route 3 over the Wilderness Run.  Pamunkey River, actually the northwest branch of the river, is now known as the North Anna River.)  The eastern half was to remain St. George’s parish and Spotsylvania county.  The western half would be designated St. Mark’s parish and in 1734 be called Orange county encompassing “all that territory of land, adjoining to and above the said line [parish boundary], bounden southerly, by the line of Hanover county, northerly by the grant of Lord Fairfax [the Rappahannock river], and westerly by the utmost limits of Virginia.” Essentially it is today’s boundary, running parallel to Spotsy’s eastern boundary and intercepting the Rapidan river at the mouth of Wilderness Run, then down to Rapidan to the Rappahannock and up the Rappahannock.1748_map (1748 map)

In 1749 Orange was subdivided into two counties.  That area south of the Rapidan (then known as the Conway river) would remain Orange; that land north/west of the Rapidan would be named Culpeper county. 

In October, 1776 Stafford and King George had an adjustment of their border.  Remember, at this time the counties along the Northern Neck had been using the ridge down the middle of the neck (watershed) as their dividing line.  In 1776 they started thinking “outside the box” and chose instead to make the split along a north-south line!  Again, it was changed because “…the present situation of the counties of Stafford and King George is found to be very inconvenient to the inhabitants.”  People in the Dahlgren area were forced to attend church in Aquia and people in the Hartwood area had to attend church in King George!  The boundary was set: “Beginning at the mouth of Muddy Creek, on the river Rappahannock, and running up the said creek, and the northwest branch thereof, to a small red oak, maple and persimmon trees, at or near the head of the said branch, and between the plantations of Thomas and James Jones, thence north seventy one degrees east twenty five poles to a spring, said the be the head spring of Whipsewaughson creek, thence down the said creek to Potowmack creek, thence down Potowmack creek to Potowmack river…” Whipsewaughson creek has been renamed to Black Swamp Branch, but it joins Potomac creek at Whipsawasons point.  Other than the name changes the border remains intact.

Similarly in 1777 Westmoreland and King George adjusted their borders to a north-south line.  The new border began on the Potomac at the mouth of Rosier’s creek, up the creek (south) to Washington’s mill, then due south to Bristol Mine run and ending up on the Rappahannock river.  This is the current border.  It turns due south where Rosier’s creek passes under county route 205 and continues until just a few hundred feet south of state route 3 where the line joins Bristol Mine run.  That part of King George county east of this line to the Richmond county border at Brockenbrough Creek became part of Westmoreland county. (1777 map) 
1777_map

So by 1777 the boundaries of the area east of Culpeper court house were pretty much as they are today.  But, consider an example.  Suppose you are researching a family who were physically located at Chatham, located just a stone’s throw across the Rappahannock river from Fredericksburg.  What county was it located in?  Well:

Before 1656 it was part of Charles River

In 1648 it became Northumberland county

In 1653 it became Westmoreland county

In 1664 it became Stafford county

In 1720 it became King George county; and finally

In 1776 it returned to Stafford county.

Five county changes BEFORE the first census was taken! 

 

So, before you traipse down to the county court house in search of those primary documents, take a bit of time to make sure you are going to the correct court house!  Good hunting!

 Sources:

William W. Hening, Statutes at Large in Virginia, 13 vols., Second Edition, New York, 1823 

James R. Mansfield, A History of Early Spotsylvania, 1977 

Mary R. Miller, Place-Names of the Northern Neck of Virginia, Richmond, Virginia State Library, 1983 

Merrill H. Morgan, Corrections to Published maps of County Boundaries of the Northern Neck, Virginia Genealogist, Fall 1993 

Morgan P. Robinson, Virginia Counties: Those Resulting from Virginia Legislation (reprint; Baltimore, Genealogical Publishing Co., 1992) 

William Thorndale & William Dollarhide, Map Guide to the U.S. Federal Censuses, 1790-1920, Baltimore, Genealogical Publishing Co., 1987